Hiunchuli 6441m with Annapurna Base Camp

Hiunchuli, with Annapurna South, forms the massive south-facing wall, well seen when trekking north from Pokhara.Hiunchuli is the eastern bastion of this rampart, with its east face overlooking the modi Khola, guarding the entrance to the Annapurna sanctuary. An impressive mountain in its own right, and not, as it was at one time dubbed. Despite the relative ease of access to the mountains and the popularity, rightly so, of the sanctuary as a trekking destination, it has like fluted peak,received little attention from the mountaineers although it obviously offers major new route potential. From the south,Hiunchuli has few weaknesses in its defences.A precipitous south wall rises above the untracked chomrong Khola,seemingly menaced by snow avalanches from the shabby ,icy-veined buttress above.

The eastern flank from the far distance appears the most approachable; however once beyond Khuldi Ghar, it seems far less so, out of sight the mountains, remains an unknown quantity approached by only a few, through steep and dense bamboo forest, menaced by unseen avalanche danger from the hanging Glacier, above. From the north the mountain rises steeply above the moraines of the Annapurna South Glacier in a series of slabby buttresses and an ill defined and complicated North Ridge. These in turn lead to a final triangle of fluted ice that form the summit. The summit is bounded on the east by a ridge that rises in an icy parabola from a small col from which a steep couloir descends towards the moraines above the Lodges at base camp. This is a feasible looking route, and is as yet Climbed.The Mountain's western arm is the ridge connecting it with Annapurna south, and forming from the north an icy wall.

Trekking Option: Camping, Duration: 22 Days Peak Permit: US$ 350 for group of four. Season:March to May, September to November

Climbing Route

South-East Face
First ascent was via this route in October by American Expedition lead by Craig Anderson and his friends. Although not a technically extreme climb, it is exposed to rock fall and dangers and is complicated route-finding experience. From this route mountain is rarely climbed.

From Hinko Cave (3014m) climb the hill side which is very steep to a base Camp at in grassy meadow (4115m), below the south east face of mountain.

From Base Camp cross the two glaciers insight of east face. There is potential icefall danger from these glaciers. Climb a rock wall and sight camp one place on the glacier at 4700m.

From Camp 1 cross the Glacier running due-east to a rock wall and climb this at its lowest point on good rock. In fact, in fact, it is possible to climb the rock wall by a couloirs line (600ft). That split it, running diagonally left to right. Near the top of the couloirs traverse, left in to shorter couloirs that is followed to the upper snow slope where we put the Camp two at 5334m.

From Camp 2 cross the large snow basin that leads to the foot of a hanging glacier and camp 3.

From camp 3 climb up a narrow avalanche chute to the base of a hanging Glacier. Traverse left under the hanging glacier to easier slopes on its left -hand side snow slopes above the climbed to the site of Camp 4 at 6096mt, beneath a large crevasse. Cross the bergschrund to easier snow slopes which in turn lead to the final ridge. Follow this ridge to the top descend same way.

Outline Itinerary (from Annapurna base camp).

Day 01 : Arrival day,O/n Hotel.
Our office representative greets you at Airport, transfer to Hotel.

Day 02 : In Kathmandu
Half day explore the world heritage culture sites are Pashupatinath Temple, Boudhanath Temple & Kathmandu Durbar Square & rest of time organize essential gears for trekking & climbing.

Day 03 : Drive to Pokhara alt 700 M, Dis.200kms 5-6 hrs drive O/ Hotel.
Day 04 : Drive to Nayapul, trek to Ulleri alt 1900m, 5-6hrs
Day 05 : Trek to Ghorepani alt 2700m, 5-6hrs.

Day 06: Trek to Hotel Tadapani 2600 m, 4-5hrs.
Am climb punill 3100m, to view clear view of Annapurna Massif and Hiunchuli. Trek to Tadapani.

Day 07 : Trek to Chomrong alt 2000m, 5-6hrs.
Day 08 : Trek to Bamboo alt 2200, 5-6 hrs.
Day 09 : Trek to Deurali alt 3000m, 5-6hrs
Day 10 : Trek to Anapurna Base Camp alt 3800m 5 hrs.
Day 11 : Acclimatization explore Annapurna Glacier.
Day 12 : Trek to Trek to Hiunchuli Base camp alt 4600m, 3-4 hrs.
Day 13 : Trek to Camp one at 5100 m, 4hrs.
Day 14 : Trek to Camp two alt 5600 m
Day 15 : summit Huinchuli alt 6461 m, return to Annapurna Base camp.
Day 16 : Trek to Himalaya Hotel
Day 17 : Trek to Chomrong alt 2100m
Day 18 : Trek to Tolkha
Day 19 : Trek to Phedi, drive to Pokhara.
Day 20 : Drive to Kathmandu, O/n Hotel.
Day 21 : Free day Ktm, you can visits Patan or Bhaktapur Darbar square.
Day 22 : Departure day, transfer to Airport, Namaste & Tashidhele.
Tour Cost & Inquiry: info@nepaltravels.com / sales@nepaltravels.com

Service Includes in Camping Trek