Known as Technical Mountain, challenging ascend through
all possible routes, Kusum Kanguru is an impressive
rock and ice peak which forms the border between the
Dudhkosi in the south and Hinku Valley to the north.
Its name originating in Sherpa language means the
Three Snow-White Gods. This climb is suggested only
for participants who have enough alpine mountaineering
experience.
South East Ridge
First ascend was 1979 by Takashi Kana Hideako Naoi,
Hajime Vematsu and other two Japanese in 1979. The
approach through South East Face is from the Hinku
valley side requires 3- 4 Camp. . From Lukla the base
camp can be reached in 5 days. The ascent route to
the main summit is through the South East Face. With
a base cam at 4360m, two or three high camps are required
to complete the climb.
North East Ridge
First ascend was made 1983 by Dr David Hopkins, Neithardt(
Swiss) and Andrew Wielochowski (British) reached on
16th September . It provide reasonable albeit High
Standard Climb. The climb can be complete in 6 days.
From base camp involves major difficulties on both
rock and ice climb. The North Ridge is approached
from Monjo on the trail to Namche Bazaar. From base
camp ascend steep grassland and scree climb and finally
a ramp leading to the ridge proper.
Trip Details:
Trekking Option: Camping
Duration: 16 Days
Permit: US$ 350 for group of four
Season: March to May, September to November
Outline itinerary
(Using South East Ridge)
Day 01 : Arrive in Kathmandu, transfer to
Hotel
Day 02 : Prepare necessary equipment in Kathmandu
Day 03-07 : Fly to Lukla, trek to Base camp.
Day 08-13 : Climbing Period
Day 14-17 : Return to Lukla
Day 18 : Fly to Kathmandu
Using North East Ridge
Day 01: Arrive in Kathmandu, transfer to Hotel
Day 02 : Prepare necessary equipment in Kathmandu
Day 03 : Fly to Lukla, trek to Monjo 2800m
Day 04-07 : Acclimatization and trek to Base
camp alt 4280m.
Day 08-13 : Climbing Period
-
Camp 01
: Following the moraine
of Kyashar Glacier with steep climb to Kusumkangaru
Col and peak 43 to the north peak 6769m, cave camp
place at 5100 meters. Camp 01
-
Camp 02
: Continue the glacier climb although small
is complex and troublesome leads to flat basin at
5400m Camp two.
-
Camp 03
: A 45 degree snow rib is followed for 250 meters,
to the col alt 5650 M, A Camp place at narrow precipitous
slope.
-
Camp 04
: North -east ridge leads from the col to the
base of pyramid alt 6194 m, this portion presents
rock and snow climbing.
-
From camp
04, The steep face leads to the top of the north
east buttress of the east summit provides most concentrated
difficulties combine with complex route on loose
rock and variable snow and Finally traverses knife
edge snow ridge to the east summit 6356 meters.
.
-
Standard Hotel
accommodation on BB Basis,Eseential permit, fees
and climbing permit,
-
Equipment
: Trekking tents,
Dining tent, Kitchen Tent, Toilet Tent, Table and
chairs, Mattresses during the trekking & Peak
climbing period
-
Food :
Food for trekking & Peak climbing (Breakfast,
lunch, dinner)
-
Staff :
1 Base Camp Guide, 1 Cook, 1 Kitchen, 1 climbing
guide & necessary porters
-
Standard Hotel
accommodation on BB Basis ,
-
Meal: Full
board freshly cooked meal during trek best available
hotel/lodges or teahouse
-
English Speaking
guide, Climbing Guide & necessary porters,
-
Essential
permit, fees and climbing permit, all the ground
transportation(tourist coach & private) ,
-
Insurance
for Guide & Porters and equipment for them.
-
Airport -Hotel-Airport
transfer, Farewell dinner, service charge
-
Personal equipment
for climbing & trekking,
-
Travel insurance,
evacuation and rescue flight ,Sleeping bag ,
-
Personal nature
of expenses ,
-
Tipping (Tips),
-
Bar bills
& beverage( Kathmandu-Lukla Air fare( US$ 93
o/w), domestic Airport Tax.
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